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I have designed my pattern by looking at many, many pictures online, to get a good idea of what a gambeson should look like. I have looked at other people’s. Posted: Sat 13 Feb, am Post subject: Choice of Gambeson patterns Reply with quote. Hi, I’m preparing to do a suit of mid-late 15th Century armor. Period Pattern ™ No Medieval Military Garments. Includes 3 gambesons, two with optional pockets for plates inside the skirt; 4 surcoats (including a cyclas );.

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The one non standard measurement needed is best done as follows. However there is a chance of the wool being gradually turned into felt though use compression and damp… double sided felt: The edges are topstitched around the perimeter of the garment to ensure durability.

The appearance of immediately post dark-age gambesons worn alone is of a garment with vertical lines of sewing. What happens is that the thread used to sew the tube breaks, and the padding in the two tubes next to one another merge together. See the pages for each pattern to see pictures of clothing people have made from that Period Pattern. Padding is made of Warm and Natural, a cotton felt fambeson used in quilting.

This can be deal with by building the garment from stuffed panels connected by buckle and strap rather like a later period brigadine or by lacing the panels together. It was a type of light armour, worn underneath chainmail, or as main armour by poorer warriors.

Armour Archive – Essays: Simple Gambeson Construction

Woolly jumpers, ex-school jumpers and similar work quite well — anything with some bulk to it. Secondly- as a poorer warrior I look appropiately in armour which took less time to make and would be therefore cheaper. Clothing might have been deliberately smoked over an fire to kill lice. Button holes are done with a Necchi industrial sewing machine. It will also determine how much of a gambdson it is to make, how much it costs, and how much maintainance it needs.


This was why I have made the pathern parts bigger than padding, so when I sew it together, the linen can be sewn together separately, without the need to punch the needle through the padding, This creates a tighter, stronger stitch and makes it far more elastic and easy to move, once the armour is finished.

Then, I stitched along those lines, making sure that the fabric did not shift, while I did it. While I don’t mind the occasional “sting”, I don’t want large welts or bruises. Morphopedics Where Technology and Orthopedics Collides.

But even those who could afford armor had to wear something underneath metal armor, for comfort; this was usually padded. For occasional 13th C use, I also made a sword-knot belt I need to post a picture. Note the right side is not sewn.

Thanks, Dave De gustibus non disputandum est. On the other hand it might be bambeson layered garments started to be worn under mail earlier, and the dotted garments are lighter versions of this, and the lined garments are stout versions rather than stuffed versions.

Front piece would be cut into two pieces, allowing it to be laced together when put on. There patttern examples of late padded jacks of only two layers of linen, stuffed with cotton wool, but quite heavily stuffed, probably worn under some armour.

So I would like armor that is properly protective, and I assume people will be hitting me as hard as they can. The neck opening will be smaller in the back. Padded armour probably starts off to added protection under mail. Although late medieval garments sometimes have separable sleeves, all pattdrn earlier examples seem to have either no sleeves or integral sleeves.


Fashion the front opening large enough to fit your head through.


George in the van der Paele Madonna springs to mind. This Gambeson is designed for simple construction. Firstly- it was easier and took half the time, than if I did it closely together.

Unpin your torso mock up and lay it gambesoon flat on top of your cotton duck doubled so you cut pattrn at once, if you are making it all the same colour you can cut 4 at once if you wish and have sharp scissors you need to add 1 CM for every 3 CM’s of fabric in a horizontal direction to the torso this includes the neck.

It gets tied after putting the gambeson on.

Wikiwood Wychwood Warriors Wiki. The armholes deepened to the waist, then to the hip.

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This gameson, when you are putting the gambeson together, you can readily assemble ot the right way, without wondering which side is which. The one depicted in Brian R. For the purposes of reenactment however, it is just as good and far more practical to use linen as outer fabric, with woolen or similar padding inside. Seams parallel to tubes are unproblematic, and merely leave a small strip unpadded, depending on how close the stitching of the seam can be to the two tubes.

My gambeson goes down almost to my knee, to protect my thighs, and this split reaches to just above my tailbone.